23-Mervelleuse

Merveilleuse

A/W 2003

A clear expression of Ferré’s passion for historic and stylistic research, this white shirt makes reference to the chemise à la reine, a peasant-style shirt-dress favoured by Marie Antoniette which was subsequently taken to the extreme by the post-revolutionary Merveilleuses, whose semi-transparent shifts were considered more akin to undergarments than fashionable gowns. Capturing the provocative aspect of these late 18th century expressions of decadence, Ferré’s shirt is made of long swathes of transparent, lace-edged chiffon and further enhanced by a long cloak decorated with a fine inlay of embroidered lace. The female form of the wearer is highlighted by a padded strapless bra worn over, rather than under, the shirt. The ‘overdose’ of femininity generated by this garment was tempered on runway by the use of glam punk makeup and hair.


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